www.wolf1964.co.uk Contact Me

Guestbook I Home

Photography Training

This section is to help you with your photography if you're a beginner.

There's little point in my reproducing information that's already out there, so here are some useful links:

Aperture

Shutter Speed

ISO

Aperture Priority

Shutter Priority

 

Basic Kit

Camera
Look at what's available and make sure that it has the basic features that you need. If you're after something for scenery or portraits only, you can get away with a decent 'bridge' camera. The downside is that you can't change lenses and you'll be restricted in your frame rate for rapid shooting.

If you want to shoot fast moving subjects (eg cars, motorbikes, wildlife) get a second hand Canon 20D as a starter. It shoots at 5 frames per second and is a good starting point. Also consider full frame against crop. If you're going to be shooting subjects from a distance I'd avoid a full frame digital as the sensor will increase the effective range of your zoom. Eg a sensor with 1.6 crop on a 50mm lens will give you the equivalent of a 70mm lens. So a Sigma 50-500mm lens is going to give you about 700mm at the top end zoom. Very useful if you're photographing wildlife. You can pick up a decent Canon 20D for around £200. Check the body for wear and tear - if there are too many scratches on it - avoid it for a nicer looking one unless the vendor assures you that it's been serviced and certain parts have been replaced. Do your research and don't get ripped off.

Lens
Better to spend less on the camera body and more on the lens. Especially if you have a limited budget. I use Sigma lenses. I would say that 95% of the images that you see on my site have been created with Sigma lenses. They're cheaper than Canon lenses and do the job. Sigma offer a calibration service to match up the camera body with the lens. By the best that you can afford. My main shooting lens is the Sigma 50-500mm. I have a Sigma 10-20mm lens for landscapes and a Sigma 400-800mm for wildlife.

Camera Bags
Get a good camera bag and make sure that it's at least showerproof and has a rainproof cover. Some bags are completely waterproof and can even float but are very expensive. If you're heading for wet climates it might be worth the extra expense to safeguard your equipment.
Lowpro do a good range of bags.


Lens Cloths
Get a couple of different cloths. A small one that you can carry in an easily accessible outer garment pocket and a bigger one in your camera bag. You'll find many types of cloth out there. Find ones that suit you and stick with them. Make sure that they're machine washable.


Filters
Make sure you get decent UV filter or skylight filters to protect your lenses from scratches. Better to damage a filter than an expensive lens. You can also buy filters to help with creative elements of your photography. Research 'Circular Polariser' and then 'Cokin Filters' to get an idea of what's possible.


Tripod
Make sure you pick a good one. The heavier the lens, the heavier the tripod needs to be for stability, especially if you're looking to do some night photograpy (eg Aurora Borealis, night sky or volcano eruptions in the dark and creative slow capture photography. You can see examples of these types of photography in my albums. Make sure the head of the tripod is good for the job you have in mind (eg fast moving heads for wildlife or friction heads for a good lock for night time shots. Do the research and get the right kit for you. Manfrotto have a good range of equipment.


Clothing
Get the right clothes for whatever you're going out into if you're doing wildlife, sports or landscape photography. Think about where you're going and the potential conditions that you may encounter. If you're going sub-zero use clothing that's been designed for that environment and layer up. If you're headed to tropical zones you should think about ways of keeping the different types of insect life out too ... while awake or asleep. A mosquito net is priceless!

Think about high visibility versus low visibility. If you're going after wildlife, good camouflage is essential - make sure it matches the terrain you're going into. The downside is that a hunter might not see you and could accidentally shoot you if it's hunting season in the country you're visiting. If you're going up into the mountains for some alpine climbing photography, high visibility clothing is essential in case the emergency services need to locate you.

Utility waistcoats are a great bit of kit. I use them under my outer layer where it's cold to keep my batteries warm in order to conserve the charge. I use every other time I'm on a shoot too. It holds batteries, memory cards, lens cloths, a compass and MP3 player quite comfortably. It can weigh up to 3kg when fully loaded which is really handy if you're using budget airlines to travel somewhere and want to cut down the amount of weight in your baggage.

Take good boots! You feet are essential bits of kit. Use proper walking boots, irrespective of the temprature. I always use boots that go higher than my ankles. It's added protection and support. I use four season boot socks too. It can get a bit warm at times but I've never had blisters. Gaiters can be good for keeping unwanted visitors out of your boots and trousers and are essential for snowy climates.

Take snow goggles if you're heading to sub zero or very windy climes. Protect your eyes at all times. You should take appropriate sunglasses for snow climes. Make sure they provide adequate UV protection and wrap around your head slightly to protect your eyes from sunlight getting in from the sides.

Take crampons if you're heading to icy conditions, you can't photograph much if you're slipping around. The last thing you want is broken bones from a fall.


First Aid Kit
Take a good basic kit that can be carried either on a utility belt or in your pack. Try to find some curves suturing needles too - just in case. If you have a disability make sure you invest in a medic alert bracelt or necklace. It's also a good idea to write your blood type on your kit somewhere and to have a note in the top of your kit about medications you're using and allergies etc.

Consider the terrain carefully and do not move quickly over terrain that you can't see (eg snow covered ground) go slowly and use a staff or monopod to feel your way.


Travel Vaccinations
Get checked out and make sure you have the right jabs for the area that you're visiting. Click here.


Visas
Check out your visa requirements carefully. Always take a couple of spare passport photos with you just in case. Some places will let you obtain a visa on landing. Others require you to obtain one before you travel. The arrangements for the USA have changed - so please ensure you apply for the appropriate travel document before purchasing a flight. This link gives you a basic idea of where you can travel with or without a visa.


Communications
Make sure you take a quad band phone with you if travelling abroad. You may not always be able to get a signal dependent on where you are but you might get lucky and it could mean the difference between life and death if you or a member of your party is seriously injured or ill. Also take two way hand radios for every member of your party (including your guide). They usuall have a range of 2km and can be very useful. If you're going somewhere dangerous, make sure someone knows and arrange a call back time with them to let them know that your are safe.

Research
Before heading out on a trip, research the area, the target you want to photograph, local customs, political tensions etc. The Foreign Office website offers a free guide about travel safety around the world. You can access it here. Research your target carefully - what's the weather going to be like in the area at this time of the year? How close can you get to the subject? If it's wildlife, how does it move, feed, eat, sleep, mate, what sort of places does it sleep, what sounds does it make, how can you protect yourself without endangering the animal? The list goes on. Sit and consider the options.


Practise!
Practise as often as you can. Wildlife photography is my manin passion. The subject can be there and gone in a second or two, so you have to be quick. Aircraft, cars and motobikes move quickly and such shows are a good playground for practice. Then you can try photographing footballers etc for slightly less predictable movements. It all helps to hone your skills for photographing wildlife.

 

I hope you found this section useful. Please feel free to contact me if you'd like to arrange some one-to-one training or training for a small group (maximum three people).

Villayat 'Wolf' Sunkmanitu
Tel 07971 99 77 10
Email wolf (at) wolf-photography.com

 


Site Meter